The Settle Inn, 91 St Mary's Wynd, Stirling
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THE SETTLE INN, 91 St MARY'S WYND
This is an old old building in a wynd just down from Stirling Castle. The lounge of The Settle Inn has a magnificent barrel-vaulted ceiling, complete with what looks like tiny stalactites (more than likely made from petrified nicotine - a legacy of the smoking era). It's a small and very cosy pub, complete with a real stove, in which some sort of time warp has been installed. Because you no sooner get to the end of your pint than you think, 'I reckon I'll just have another.' Then, when you get near the end of that one, no matter the strength of your resolution in attempting to extricate yourself from the premises, you inexplicably find yourself somehow heading back to the counter for another ale. It may be many days if not weeks before you see the sunshine again.
THE BIRDS & BEES, EASTER CORNTON ROAD
About a mile to the north of Stirling, off the main road leading to Causewayhead and the Wallace Monument. Just turn left at the road immediately before the roundabout at Causewayhead. The Birds & Bees is a converted farmhouse barn decked out in various farming implements and works of art. There are even a few woolly sheep seats. Food's very good, and the general atmosphere is relaxed and homely. If the weather's kind, you can sit outside and soak up views over the flat carse towards the Ochil Hills, the Wallace Monument, and as far as the blue misty mountains of the Highlands. When there, I prefer to drink bottles of 'Birds & Bees'.
PORTCULLIS HOTEL (foot of Stirling Castle esplanade)
A hotel in an old grammar school. The bar of the Portcullis Hotel has a real fire and is very comfortable. Food is served in great overflowing platefuls, and a couple of real ales are always on tap.
SHERIFFMUIR INN
This is a little inn in the middle of nowhere, and it's worth every bit of effort it takes to reach it. The Sheriffmuir Inn is an old drovers' inn, and inside it is seriously snug and cosy with a real fire, real ale, and an atmosphere that will make it very hard to leave. Basically, it sits alone in the hills, not far from the site of the 1715 Battle of Sheriffmuir, an indecisive battle fought on heather-clad slopes where many men died. 'There's some say that we wan, And some say that they wan, And some say that nane wan at a', man.' There are no buses to the inn, so it's either an invigorating walk of something like five miles there and another five miles back on tarmac, or a taxi. If you'd like to get out your map (Ordnance Survey Landranger series, one-and-a-quarter inches to a mile, sheet 57, 'Stirling & The Trossachs') I'll show you where it is. Do you see Stirling on the right of your map? Look above it and you'll see the town of Bridge of Allan, then Dunblane. Well, north-east of Dunblane (a bit to the right and a wee bit up) you'll see Sheriff Muir, and at a junction of minor yellow roads, just south of the actual site of the battle, you'll see PH, which stands for public house. That's the Sheriffmuir Inn. As you may see, if you look at those yellow roads, you can start your adventure at either Dunblane or Bridge of Allan. The choice is yours. It might be nice to start at the old church west (to the left) of Blairlogie, and follow the road to the inn. After a few ales and perhaps a bite to eat you could then return via the other road to Dunblane. The scenery in the hills is wonderful, but remember, this is a road, and there will be an occasional car, sometimes driven by people who were born with a deficit of cranial grey matter, so take care. And have a nice day. (PS - If you do find it hard to leave, then they've got rooms, so you might be able to stay and walk back the next day.)
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The Birds and Bees, Easter Cornton Road, Stirling
Portcullis Hotel, Stirling
The Inn at Sheriffmuir