Of all the quaint little towns in the East Neuk of Fife, Pittenweem is
probably my favourite. You wouldn't think there was much between them;
they all sit by the sea, have charming old cottages with crow-stepped
gables and red pantiles, and fishing boats that bob around on the waters
of a harbour. But when in Pittenweem I definitely sigh with contentment
a lot more than I do when in the other towns. At the west end of the
town there is a curvy row of colourful cottages facing defiantly out
towards the sea, as if saying, 'You might be a big wet dangerous thing
but we're stout and firm and you shall not pass.' And it is that very
sea that is the life-blood of Pittenweem. The town probably has the
largest working harbour in the East Neuk, where they do still catch lots
of fish and crunchy things with spindly legs.
The area at the east end of the harbour, not far
from St Fillan's Cave, is as pretty as pretty can be. I was
surprised to find the cave up a wee lane. For some
reason I half expected it to be down on a rocky shore, and no doubt it did
at one time sit by the sea. Saint Fillan seemingly came to Scotland long
long ago, along with his ma, his brothers, and his uncle, who was also a
saint. Saintishness obviously ran in the family. He apparently used to
do some writing in the dark gloomy cave by a light that strangely glowed from his
left arm. All of which kinda makes me think that maybe he'd caught his
robe in the flame of a candle and was in fact on fire.