MOFFAT MUSEUM, CHURCHGATE
This is a small local museum housed in what was once a bakehouse, whose
huge redundant oven still exists inside. It is here that you will learn
of Moffat's rise to fame as a spa town, and perhaps of Moffat's fall
from grace. Because, if truth be told, almost every small town and
village has in some way fallen from grace. Once upon a time each had its
own bakery, its own brewery, its own butcher, its own shoemaker, and so
on, and often more than one. Nowadays most small towns get their bread
and beer and meat and shoes brought in from somewhere else. And we
wonder why the roads are so clogged up with traffic.
Amongst all the exhibits, I am particularly fond of one that sits
outside. It is 'a reversible bench from a carriage used on the Beattock
- Moffat branch railway.' It is evocative of a time when we did things
right, when at each tram or railway terminus the conductor would re-set
the reversible backs on the seats so that everyone would be facing the
direction of travel. Nowadays we can't afford the luxury of having
someone do such a thing. The result is carriages with seats facing both
forward and backward. There's always someone sitting facing towards
everyone else, and whose blank vacant face you have to somehow avoid for
the duration of the journey, an impossible task, as we all know, because
it is invariably a face belonging to someone with hypnotic powers, an
irritating coupon that draws us back again and again and again. Bring
back the reversible chair-backs, that's what I say.
WHISKY SHOP, MOFFAT WOOLLEN MILL
I am not generally one for such places. There are usually hoards of folk
ambling around stretching their legs from a coach trip and generally
getting in the way. I have at times questioned this peculiar fascination
tourists have for knitted garments, a ponderance that occasionally sees
me fully expecting to turn a corner in the countryside to find fields
full of cold bald sheep. But that's just me, and there can be no doubt
that the items of clothing in such places are of good quality and well
priced. In the Whisky Shop there is a small bar where you may have a
free sample. If you are in any doubt as to the extent of their charity,
you may find it in the notice stuck to the bar. It reads, 'Only three
tastings per customer allowed.' Which isn't bad, until you realise that
each tasting is but a thimbleful and barely enough to tickle your
tonsils. You can, of course, get around the rules. I had my three
samples, went to the toilet and roughed up my hair a little, returned
for another three samples, walked a few steps and took off my
spectacles, then went back for another three free samples, by which time
I found I was unable to actually say the phrase, 'Three free samples,'
and instead quietly and hopefully pointed towards a bottle of whisky.
Worth a look, more so if you have a stock supply of false moustaches and
noses in your rucksack.
WALKING IN MOFFAT
Moffat is very much a walkers' town. The tourist office has leaflets
offering small walks of a few kilometres that will take you a little out
of the town and allow your feet to meet with grass instead of tarmac. If
you're a bit fitter there are also leaflets for walks of an hour or more
going as far as the Grey Mare's Tail waterfall and the magnificent
scenery around the glorious Tibbie Shiels Inn. Or, if you've planned it
properly, you could tackle all 212 miles of the Southern Upland Way.
It's a funny thing, but on the occasions when I tackle a big trek that
ends by the sea, I find that first sight of the water brings floods of
tears. As far as long-distance walks go, this one is awesome. But you've
got to properly plan the whole thing. Do not leave anything to chance as the risk is too great.