Difficult to know where to begin in Edinburgh. At times it seems that
every turn brings a new masterpiece of pub design, and if nothing else,
I think there's a strong chance I may run out of hippos. Anyway, those listed
below will get you started. Once you've visited them all, you're on your
own.
THE OXFORD BAR, 8 YOUNG STREET
A lovely old Edinburgh pub, famous these days for being frequented by writer Ian
Rankin and his fictional Detective Inspector Rebus. It's small inside,
and feels dusty and musty and conducive to the penning of poems. Local
ale, too.
THE CAFE ROYAL BAR, 17 WEST REGISTER STREET
An utterly magnificent bar that is little changed from Victorian
times. The interior is festooned with pictorial tile panels, ornate
plaster ceiling, and old carved woodwork. Truly, this is what you could
properly term 'a palace.'
GUILDFORD ARMS, 1 WEST REGISTER STREET
Located a few steps from The Cafe Royal Bar, the Guildford Arms is yet another
old palace of magnificence. You would be hard pushed to find a more
opulently ornate interior in the Queen's chambers at Holyrood. Real
ale aside, you could probably spend a few hours doing nothing
more taxing than gazing at the stupendous plaster ceiling. It is
out of this world. This is a pub you simply should not miss.
THE ABBOTSFORD, 3 ROSE STREET
Edinburgh is without question Scotland's Mecca for wonderful
pubs. And here's another one. The Abbotsford is located in the narrow lane that runs
parallel with and behind Princes Street, it boasts old wood and ornate
plaster work and a cosy comfy atmosphere. Can be busy when food is being
served, but it's just so snug that having to pick carrots from your ears
and sprouts from your ale is a small price to pay.
BANNERMAN'S BAR, 212 COWGATE
Located in the lower bowels of the Old Town, below the Royal
Mile, Bannerman's has a studenty feel with walls decked in posters
promoting the many bands that have played within its walls. The interior
has a number of rooms and caverns linked by narrow passageways. A good
place for thinking thoughtful thoughts, like, 'Am I going to make it
back up that steep hill?'
THE HALFWAY HOUSE, 24 FLESHMARKET CLOSE
Good Scottish ale and good Scottish food - what more is there to
say? The Halfway House is a tiny atmospheric pub halfway up a steep set of stairs
near the railway station. Inside it feels so overwhelmingly snug that
this may indeed be all of Edinburgh that you see before catching a train
back home.
BENNETS BAR, 8 LEVEN STREET, TOLLCROSS
With an apostrophe or without an apostrophe, that is the
question. Bennets Bar opened at the beginning of Queen Victoria's reign, and
is probably little changed since then. Like so many of the capital's
great drinking establishments it overflows with the skills of men long
gone. Everywhere you look there are decorated advertising mirrors,
colourful stained glass, and carved wood. The whole pub is both a work
of art and a testimony to the many skills that have sadly taken a back
seat these days. It's the sort of bar that you may find very hard to
leave. Wonderful.